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HAR HAR NARMADA. HAR HAR NARBADA. The chant goes louder as one passes a group of Parikramawasi near Maheshwar. My interest peaked after reading the pictorial Essay of a Parikrama- Ma Narmada PariCarMa by my IIM Ahmedabad class of ’87 batchmate Srinivas Shastri. Moreover, I have lived and completed my schooling and engineering in Jabalpur, where I lived some 8 Km from the famous Gowrighat on the banks of Maa Narmada. Here I am trying to assimilate details about Narmada Parikrama under the #IgnorantHindu project. I know, most likely, I will never do the Parikrama myself unless Maa Narmada has other ideas.
According to Hindu belief, Maa Narmada is among the seven holy rivers: Ganga, Yamuna, Saraswati, Sindhu, Godavari, Narmada and Kaveri. Narmada, the fifth largest river in the Indian subcontinent originates from the Maikal Mountain ranges (Amarkantak Hills) in Madhya Pradesh. It flows in the Western direction (East to West), passing through Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat, before merging onto the Arabian sea at the Gulf of Cambay near Bharuch city in Gujarat.
THE POWER OF MAA NARMADA HAR HAR
It is said that merely seeing Maa Narmada cleanses the person’s sins as what happens by taking a dip in Maa Ganga or seven in the Yamuna. The legend goes that whenever Ganga feels polluted, she takes the form of a Black cow and comes for maa Narmada darshan to get purified. Maa Narmada is also called Reva and Purvaganga.
If seeing Maa Narmada can cleanse sins, maybe sharing information about Parikrama and reading the Pictorial Essay could also have a good impact.
LEGEND OF MAA NARMADA
Lord Shiva sat in intense meditation, and his sweat rolled down his body and collected in a tank. Eventually, it overflowed as the Narmada or Shankari, Shankar’s daughter. Every pebble on the river bed of maa Narmada is supposed to take the shape of a Shivalinga- and they are called Banalinga.
MAA NARMADA PARIKARMA.
Narmada Parikrama, as the name suggests, is a circular journey around the holy river Narmada. It is adventurous and spiritual, with exposure to many temples and places of worship.
Narmada from Amarkantak to the sea is about a 1312 Km long journey. And one would think the Parikrama could be double that – around 2624 Km. But the actual Parikrama is about 3500 km long. It is because of various diversions, dams and the rules that the Parikramawasi must follow.
There is a belief the 7 Chiranjeevis (Immortals) – Parasurama, Hanuman, Vibhishna, Aswathama, Mahabali, Kripacharya and Sage Vyasa are continuously doing the Parikrama and protecting the Parikramavasis.
PARIKARMA RULES AND EXPECTATIONS.
A Parikramawasi must follow Brahmacharya (celibacy), only eat vegetarian meals during the Parikrama, and conduct in a dignified manner. Parikramawasi is expected to shave the head and beard before the start of the Parikrama.
Parikramawasi was expected to only rest on the floor – no other furniture was allowed. It was so, as the Parikramawasi depended on the generosity of people living near the banks. Now a day, most Parikramawasi do not follow this resting on floor rule.
Maa Devi Narmada is the presiding deity during the Parikrama. The Parikramavasi must worship her twice a day – before and after a day’s journey. Prefer taking a dip in the river every day. Suppose one gets far away from the river during Parikrama due to geographical conditions. In that case, prayers should be offered to the pot of Narmada water the Parikramawasi carries.
One can start Narmada Parikrama from any point at the bank of Maa Narmada and start moving in the clockwise direction keeping the river Narmada on the right-hand side. Hence, beginning on the north side of the river is better.
Parkramawasi must not cross the river Narmada, and they should avoid the islands inside the river. Nowadays, people find excuses and venture into the river till the midpoints between the banks, thus keeping the sanctity of the rule.
Before starting the Narmada Parikrama, the Parikramawasi should pray before Maa Narmada for care, guidance, and help to complete the spiritual journey. After the prayers to Maa Narmada, the Parikramawasi should take a pot of Narmada water from the river and carry it till the completion of Narmada Parikrama.
Nowadays, everything is available, and Parikrama has become a bit easy to do. However, a Parikramawasi was expected to travel light in the past but had to carry clothing, blanket, bedding, utensil, knife, stick and pot with Narmada water. In fact, people used to start and go on Parikrama without much, depending on the generosity and help from the people on the way and believing that Mata Narmada would take care of everything.
SUGGESTION TO PARIKRAMAWASI
Parikramawasi should chant ‘Har Har Maa Narbada’ or ‘Rewa’ (another name for Narmada) or concentrate on chanting any other god. Some people chant the name of Shiva, as Narmada is also known as the daughter of Shiva.
The Parikramawasi is also not expected to cross the 41 tributaries to Maa Narmada. There are 22 tributaries on the Satpura ( south side) and 19 on the Vindhyas ( North side) of the river. However, now this too is relaxed, and people believe no tributary should be crossed more than once by the Parikramawasi.
The whole length of Parikrama is dotted with well-known and not-so-well-known places of worship. Parikramawasi is encouraged to visit and pray in as many places as possible.
Maa Narmada is a perennial river, and the current is fast. Parikramawasi must not venture unguarded deep into the river. And it is expected that the Parikramawasi will do their best to avoid polluting the river.
Parikramawasi should carry some sort of Government issues photo Identity. It will be helpful as an identity and help check-in at various places for stay. It is advisable for a Parikramawasi to obtain a Certificate for Narmada Parikrama from the Nagar Panchayat, Omkareshwar, before starting the journey as it is helpful to prove identity as a genuine Parikramawasi on several occasions.
WAYS TO DO MAA NARMADA PARIKARMA.
The earlier way to perform Narmada Parikrama was by foot. An arduous journey of more than 2600 walking at least 30 Km every day, next to the bank, took more than 3-4 months.
One can do it using public transport and shared vehicles, which would take around 25-30 days. Most places on the Parikrama Marg are well connected by public transport.
Nowadays people prefer using package tours. An average Parikrama tour cost around 25-55000 (budget to luxury) per person on twin sharing basis and usually takes 13-16 days. The price is inclusive of food-stay and darshan. However, there is not much freedom to devote more time to a place of liking.
One of the best ways to do Maa Narmada parikrama is to use your own vehicle. It does give you the advantage of deciding where you want to spend how much time. You can speed up or slow down as per your choice. This would need detailed planning and managing of accommodation and temple darshan. And in this process, you may pack a lot more than packaged tours can do in 13-15 days.
TYPES OF NARMADA PARIKRAMA
(1) MUNDAMAL PARIKRAMA — The most popular NARMADA PARIKRAMA. It may be started from any specific point at the bank of NARMADA on foot. The Parikramawasi returns to the same point after walking around both sides of the holy river in a clockwise direction.
(2) JALEHARI PARIKRAMA: Parikramawasi starts from Amarkantak ( origin of the holy river Narmada) and walks up to Mithi Talai ( where Narmada merges here with the Arabian sea) and then comes back to Amarkantak following by northern side of the river. After this, the Parikramawasi goes to the other side of the river, walks up to Kathpore and returns to Amarkantak.
(3) PANCHAKOSHI PARIKRAMA: Parikramawasi visits some religious places around Amarkantak like Mai-ki-bagia, Sonemuda, Jaleswar Mahadev temple, Dhunipani, Bhrigu Comomdulu, Kabir Chabutra, Kapil Dhara, Dugdha Dhara, Sambhu Dhara, Durga Dhara, Baratinala and Pataleswar Mahadev temple.
(4) KHANDA PARIKRAMA:– There is no binding to complete the journey in one go. Parikramawasi can start from any point at the bank of Narmada, do a part of the Parikrama and may return home. Later one can restart from the same point and do the Parikrama in parts ( Khands).
(5) CAR PARIKRAMA :- NARMADA PARIKRAMA by car
(6) MARKANDEYA PARIKRAMA: Parikramawasi can not cross the holy river NARMADA and the other main rivers that meet Maa Narmada enroute.
(7) DANDAWAT PARIKRAMA : Parikramawasi covers the distance by giving dandawat parnam to Narmada Mata. Dandawat means salute to the mother NARMADA lying on the ground.
(8) HANUMANT PARIKRAMA: There is no binding to cross the river by boat, and Parikramawasi can visit the places of spiritual interest according to their choice.
MOST USED PARIKARMA ROUTE.
One of the often used Parikrama routes starts at Ujjain. With the flow of the rive Maa Narmada, Parikramawasi moves to Omkareshwar, followed by Khargone, Shahada, Ankleshwar, Mithi Talai, Bharuch, Baroda, Jhabua, Mandu, Bhopal, Jabalpur, Umaria, Amarkantak, Dindori, Lakhnadon, Piparya and Omkareshwar.
If one is planning to make the journey on own vehicle, start at Omkareshwar and keep Maa Narmada on the right move towards the origin. After that, come on the southern side and travel to Bharuch, where one would cross the sea and return to Omkareshwar.
As Omkareshwar is the seat of one of the 12 Jyotirlingas, the Parikramawasi is not allowed to visit it as it is on an island in the river. Hence, after completing the Parikrama, the Parikramawasi pours the Narmada water he/she has been carrying back into the river after prayers and visits the jyotirlinga.
Another often used route starts at the river’s source at Amarkantak. One follows the river’s southern banks to Bharuch in Gujarat. At Bharuch, at Mithi Talai, take a motorboat from the south to the northern end and begin the return journey along its north bank. However, after ending the trip at Amarkantak, Parikramawasi goes to Omkareshwar for the Jyotirlinga darshan and completion of the Parikrama.
Important Religious Places on PARIKRAMA ROUTE
UJJAIN: Mahakaleshwar Temple. Kaal Bhairav Temple
OMKARESHWAR: Omkareshwar Temple. Triveni Sangam Ghat (Narmada-Kaveri-Saraswati).
KARGONE: Navgraha Temple.
SHAHADA: Dakshin Kashi (Prakasha).
ANKESHWAR: Shri Ankleshwar Tirth.
MITHI TALAI: Confluence of Narmada River with the Arabian Sea.
BHARUCH: Nareshwar Dham.
BHOPAL: Laxmi Narayan Temple.
JABALPUR: Shankaracharya Temple. Tripura Sundari Temple. Gwari Ghat and Beda Ghat.
AMARKANTAK: Narmadakund. Mai ki Bagiya (one of the 51 Shakti Peetha).
LAKHNADON: Jyoteshwar Mahadev Temple.
MYTHOLOGICAL ANECDOTES- NAGA AND SNAKE VENOM
According to one of the Puranic stories, Gandharvas defeated the Nagas and took over their kingdom and treasures. The Nagas went to Lord Vishnu for help, who asked them to get Purukutsa’s help. The Nagas sent their sister Narmada to ask for Purukutsa’s help. He agreed, and Narmada led him into neither world of the Nagas. Empowered by Vishnu, Purukutsa fought against the Gandharvas, ultimately defeating them. The Nagas then declared that whoever remembers this story of Narmada leading Purukutsa would not be affected by the venom of snakes. It is said that Narmada went on to marry Purukutsa. If Narmada, the female form of the goddess, remained Virgin, then all saints and people taking a dip in her would have earned Paap. So, Narmada is a virgin till Kapidhara ( nine villages) and is known to have married Purukusta.
MYTHOLOGICAL ANECDOTES- EMPEROR SAHASRARJUN
Maheshwar, on the banks of the Narmada, was the capital of King Sahasrarjun. One day the King and his 500 wives went to the river for a picnic. The wives wanted a vast play area, so, the King stopped the mighty river Narmada with his 1000 arms!
While the wives of King Sahasrarjun were enjoying themselves, Ravana flew by in his Pushpak Vimana. Downstream, he saw the dry river bed and thought it was an ideal place to pray to Lord Shiva. He made a Shivalinga out of sand and started his prayers.
The king let the waters flow when Sahasrarjuna’s wives stepped out of the river bed. The voluminous river flowed down, sweeping Ravana’s Shivalinga along, which messed up his prayers. Furious, Ravana tracked Sahasrarjuna and challenged him.
Armed to the hilt, the mighty Ravana was in for a huge surprise. The mighty Sahasrarjuna, with the 1000 arms, pinned Ravana to the ground. Then he placed ten lamps on his head and one on his hand. After tying up Ravana, Sahasrarjuna dragged him home and tied him up to the cradle pole of his son. A humiliated Ravana stayed prisoner until his release was secured.
Even today, the Sahasrarjun temple at Maheshwar lights 11 lamps in memory of the event.
MYTHOLOGICAL ANECDOTES- Narmada’s flow to the West
It is said that the Braham son ‘Sone’ wooed the mighty Narmada and she agreed to marry him. But, when Sone’s Barat was coming towards his bride’s place in a slow procession, the curious and impatient Narmada (Rewa) sent her hairdresser Johilla to check out the groom. Sone got chatting with Johilla and found her rather enchanting. Narmada then realized that her groom-to-be was enjoying Johilla’s company, she stormed out of the house and flowed westwards. The rejected Sone, too, flowed off the Amarkantak in an easterly direction. Eventually, the Johilla stream, formed by her tears, flows eastwards to join the Sone- which is an important tributary to Ganga.
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